Sustainable, ethical, vegan jewellery: the metal, gems, production and labour
Ethical rings? Gems? What?!? Why on earth would jewellery be unethical? Let’s just get right into it!
What makes a ring ethical?
it doesn’t violate human rights
it creates a low impact on the environment
it could be made from recycled or fair trade gold
you could source a vintage second-hand ring
“Remember: you can always go vintage! By purchasing a vintage piece, you’re eliminating the need for more mining and lessening the demand for new diamonds — not to mention there are thousands of gorgeous vintage finds to choose from, each of which has its own unique backstory.”
What about the gems?
This is a bit harder because it depends on many factors including:
where it came from
the working conditions
if it was lab-grown or man-made
“Blood diamond, also called conflict diamond, as defined by the United Nations (UN), any diamond that is mined in areas controlled by forces opposed to the legitimate, internationally recognized government of a country and that is sold to fund military action against that government.”
“Definitely, lab-grown diamonds are less expensive and have better purity. ”
Carbon emissions
Some companies offset their carbon emissions by planting trees after every purchase.
“Lab-grown diamonds are better for the environment, as the supply chain for a natural diamond is long and not as traceable as a lab-grown, so you can tell exactly where a lab-grown diamond originates. The cost of a lab-grown diamond is 30-50% less than a natural diamond which means you can purchase a significantly larger diamond and it’s still classed as a real diamond and just as dazzling.”
Is any diamond vegan?
The views vary.
Ethica seems to hold the view that mined diamonds are not vegan but those that are created in a lab, are.
“Ethical diamonds, and sustainable, vegan diamond jewellery does exist, but you won’t find them originating in a diamond mine. For a vegan-friendly diamond engagement ring, you need to do your research, and investigate the truth behind the mined diamond industry. ”
Mangoful refers to mined diamonds not being vegan but they also discuss the processes involved after they’ve been mined.
“Diamonds are not vegan, but this is a subjective viewpoint. Mostly, this is not regarded as vegan because of the impact that they have on the environment, groups of people, and locations where diamonds are found. Mining, transporting, and carving up diamonds for commercial sale is not vegan.”
Tim, in my opinion, has a more balanced, realistic and holistic view.
“Are lab grown diamonds vegan but mined diamonds are not? In my view, this is tenuous at best.
All of the issues with diamond mining apply to all forms of mining.
All metals are mined. So your bike, your car, the pans you cook with, and the electronic device you have emailed me from are all “not vegan.”
Indeed similar issues apply to most forms of construction - the properties that we live in, the roads and pavements that we travel on, the buildings we work in have all caused the displacement of wildlife.
Moreover, the lab grown diamonds need a source of carbon to produce them. In the majority of cases that source of carbon is graphite, which is mined! And all labs where lab grown diamonds are created and the factories where they are cut and polished make use of metal equipment and tools, all of which rely on mining.
This is not to say that I don’t think lab grown diamonds are one of the most ethical options available - I absolutely do think that — but I don’t buy the argument that they are vegan or “more vegan” than mined diamonds”
Questions to ask
what makes the company ethical
are the gems considered to be vegan
is the way that the metal is recycled vegan
does the company have any third party or independent certificates
where are the items made
who makes their jewellery
find out about their supply chain
what do their sourcing practices look like
was the piece created using conflict-free materials
were the materials sustainably mined materials
are the metals fair trade certified or recycled
what’s their returns policy like
what can be done if it doesn’t fit
does it need to be maintained or cleaned in a certain way
“Most brands will list these certifications on their website, along with information about their supply chain and sourcing practices, but they aren’t always easy to decipher. If a jeweler cites the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KCPS) as evidence that their diamonds are conflict-free, you should keep in mind that the system isn’t foolproof: diamonds produced in conflict zones can be smuggled into KCPS certified areas and, due to the narrow terms of its focus, the process also overlooks issues around worker exploitation like the use of child labor and fair pay. ”
The Responsible Jewelry Council
The Responsible Jewelry Council is a non-profit certification organisation. It was founded in 2005 and it covers the entire jewellery and watch supply chain. Some of the things that the RJC focuses on are:
human rights
labour rights
environmental impact
mining practices
product disclosure
Companies to look into
Here are a few companies that have come up when I’ve searched for ethical and sustainable rings. However, due diligence is required as I’ve not researched them thoroughly myself.
April Doubleday
Audrey Claude Jewellery
Brilliant Earth
CARAT* LONDON
Catbird
Daniel Darby Jewellery
Dove Diamond
Ecksand
Elizabeth Anne Norris Jewellery
Ethica
Fenton
GENTLE DIAMONDS
Glasswing Jewellery
Ingle & Rhode
J&E
Lark & Berry
Lebrusan Studio
Lilia Nash Jewellery
Lisa Rothwell
Lucy Jade Sylvester
Nightingale
Pandora
Shakti Ellenwood
Slade Fine Jewellery
Svendsen Jewellery
Taylor & Hart
The Diamond Store
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“Ring out the false, ring in the true.”